Update: There seems to be an updated chip available on ebay. If my procedure does not work and you have some soldering skills you find the chip here: (Thanks to George)
Update 2: I have attached the firmware inside a Word Document (WP did not allow to attach it directly). Let me know if it works
I bought the LG31MU97 in 2016 from Amazon and after 9 months, it did not power on. The reason seems to have been a power outage that somehow messed up the logic board.
So I returned it to a service center of LG to have it repaired. After 3 weeks, I received the monitor and and it worked again for 3 months.
Then after another outage the monitor was not powering on again. It was just dead. No power on sound, no LED blinking.
I contacted Amazon again, the feedback was: No we wont repair it again, the warranty is already over.
So after a while I wanted to sell it on ebay, but they all wanted to pay below 130 EUR, which was far too less including costs for ebay and shipping.
So I decided to open this piece of sh*t.
I used some plastic cards to go between the black display cover and the silver plastic housing. There are some clamps that can be easily unhinged by using enough force.
Lift the back cover a little bit so you could insert something long and thin like a ruler to get the sticky thermal pad removed.
The back cover is one piece and is somehow glued to the main part. I used a slim long metal sheet to push the adhesive away. Its around the middle and you can not break anything there.
It looks like this (1. Looking from the top on the monitor, 2. backside of the monitor after the back has been lifted that the ruler will fit.
After removing the back cover you need to unscrew the metal housing. Beware! The powersupply is then open and lead to an electric shock!
Next to the power connector you see some flash rom. This thing contains the logic to power on the logic board. Somehow the state of the rom is messed up. It needs a little bit of power to get it going again. This chip can also keep a state, as it is a flash rom. So if it is in the wrong state, it will stay like this. On this release of the board the logic is missing to reset the rom, if there is a sudden powerloss.
This is the layout from the chip.
Now comes the tricky part: IMPORTANT! YOU NEED TO POWER THE BOARD WHILE THE POWER SUPPLY IS OPEN! I STRONGLY RECOMMEND TO ASK SOMEBODY TO DO IT FOR YOU IF YOU NOT HAVE THE QUALIFICATION. I’M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PERSONAL DAMAGE!
Cover the powersupply with a nonconducting material like a plastik mat or similar. Make sure it does not move while you work! Leave the side of the logic board open so you can work on it.
Connect the powersupply and power on the Display with the switch.
Currently it should stay in the same status, black screen and no reaction.
This is the layout of the power connector and the leg of the chip we need.
Now, do not directly connect anything, you will break the whole board!
Use an ammeter and set it to DC and V. Hold the postive to the board on postive , and the negative to the SCLK (For some people the #CS leg worked!) leg. Hold it some time, and pling your monitor turns on again.
I had to play a little bit checking all the legs, but only on the SCLK the monitor started to work again. I also had to repeat it until it was permanent.
Power of the monitor, let it rest for some seconds. Power it on again. If it is still dead you need to repeat it. Also check if the other legs of the ROM do have any output..
If it powers on directly again, you can assemble the screen again. It will work again.
If I could help you, you are free to buy me a beer on paypal!
integer13.wordpress.com 
Does it still work? Just wondering if I should try or just buy a replacement rom outright.
Does it still work? Just wondering if I should try it or just buy a replacement from from ebay
Try it, it will work! The display is still in use every day with power-offs and power savings.
I meant does the monitor still work, or do you need to go through this procedure once in a while. Also, do you have a more detailed image, specifically markings on that IC205, and do I need to use specifically an “ammeter”, I only have a multimeter, I think it has an ammeter setting on it but I haven’t used it in a while. Or maybe just a use a small piece of a wire instead?
I was actually thinking about permanently soldering a push button switch or something in case the problem repeats and use that without disassembling the whole thing all over again, just push the button and voila.
yep. The problem was that the state of the monitor is stored incorrectly. Any multimeter will work when you put it on resistance check. This error has not appeared since. Not sure about the direct connection and the button as it really is not needed.
do you experience any other issues with the monitor? I’m just wondering if that corrupted rom affects some other monitor functions, not just the power on/off.
no, everything works fine. It has 4 different roms for different kind of functions, it looks like this one is only to store the state of the monitor (On/Off/Sleeping).
Sorry for so many questions, and thank you for bearing with me. I’m just trying to figure out everything before I try this.
hello my lg mu97 died.. I powered off while pc was booting thats it. killed. i searched and searched found your interesting post. I was wondering if you shorted +19 volt rail directly to SCLK? How did it fix ?? I am slightly worried if i should do the same. Chip VCC is +3.3v. Did it really work for you?
you are not giving 19v to the chip, you bridge to + using the voltmeter
zetto did it work?
Still working, even after 2 power outages.
sure wish you lived close by ,i checked this board amnd have power to switch and it still will not turn on,,i sent it to a repair company in texas and they said that they fixed it ,but the monitor still will not turn on
The same problem happened to me yesterday. Trying this fix, but nothing yet. When you say, “Hold it for some time”, how long are we talking about?
Hey Morse, thanks for asking. For me it was like 3 seconds. Do you have the power connected? Have you checked the output of your powersupply on the board?
@Keller Christian – I had to hold it for about one minute, and it took several tries before it worked.
Just to be sure, you are saying that we use the ohmmeter in the resistance check mode? Or in the DC Volt check mode? And when you say get someone to help with the power supply on state, what exactly do you mean? Just another set of hands?
No DC Volt Check mode. The second pair of hands just to make sure that the powersupply is covered. I shocked myself as my covering of the powersupply moved while i worked on it 🙂
Thanks 0x13! It took me several tries, and at one point the monitor speakers were making sounds like Star Trek photon torpedoes, but I got the monitor working again!
Hi Emerth. I was wondering how many tries and which legs did you try? I have had intermittent success with one monitor. I can’t recall the exact combination and duration, but it seemed to ping on spontaneously while as I was about to give up as I went to turn the switch off (at this point I was not using the voltemeter).
On a second monitor there are no signs of life when the symptom is the same – would not turn on after a sudden power outage (all other electronics working fine).
The chip is a 25L8006. Works with 3.3 power supply. It seems brutal to apply 19V, I am surprised it survived. There is no official reset function for it. But if it works… some sort of electro shock therapy. I’m gonna try it, there is nothing to lose.
If all else fails, a replacement chip is available from Digikey
MX25L8006EM2I-12G
What’s the ROM model number?
There are a bunch of custom chips on there, hard to make out what is what. The processor is marked DNN1116FA0YX and a search turns up nothing.
The chip in question is flash memory. The idea is that it contains user setup data and when it gets corrupted the software gets confused and won’t start.
The electro shock method didn’t work for me, I try and replace the chip. If that doesn’t work then its a board replacement – or the trashcan.
I got my friend monitor LG 31MU97 with the same problem no power and LED light.
I just use PIN point test use service manual for LG 31MU97.
And i found what CPU stuck in boot loop with error report. So i just updated Firmware in ROM in IC205 (MX25L8006E) it have error checksum before. It is 1 Megabyte rom.
And after update everything works again.
I did it with two my friend monitors. It is common problem how i see.
When can you get the firmware?
Hello
Here is the working firmware:
http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin
I tried and tried but didn’t wok.
I used multimeter, Com -> Black wire to Pin#1 (CS) or Pin#6 ((SCLK). Red wire connected to the V/Ohm/mA and touching one of those eight pins as shows at the top pic and the Dial to 20K Ohm
showing 1 on the display. Anything I’m doing wrong?
Tried for 1-2 minutes but no response..
I got my friend monitor LG 31MU97 with the same problem no power and LED light.
I just use PINpoint test pads and use the service manual for LG 31MU97 + oscilloscope.
And i found what CPU stuck in boot loop with error report. So i just updated Firmware in ROM in IC205 (MX25L8006E) it has error checksum before. It is 1 Megabyte rom.
And after an update, everything works again.
I did it with two my friend monitors. It is common problem how I see.
Did not work for me. Please update with pic of the Multimeter connection setup
and FLASH prog app for Mac OS
indeed- I had the same problem. So, I selected the MX25V8005, and that one worked.
The software is a bit tricky- it may tell you that the files are the same, even when different. One reason may be that it did not even read the device. You would get the same behavior if the device is not present at all 😉
So, I erased it in the first place, and did a blank check then. Also that may result in wrong results, if the device is not readable or writable (e.g. due to wrong or missing connection). So, to be sure, I programmed a few bytes, then read, to check if the programming/reading procedure works.
Then, again, I erased it, verified the erase and then programmed. Then, it worked 🙂
Please show how to disassemble the case of monitor.
you need a plastic card to pull the plastic mount out from the frame, like opening a smarphone backcase
If you have some long thing metal ruler like spring steel (very thin but strong) you have to push from the top to the middle because in the middle of the screen is a big thermal conducting pad in the middle (like 8cm x 8cm) which is very stick and holds the back cover like glue. I will add a pic how to remove it.
Thank you so much! i managed as well to fix my problem for my lg 31mu97 that was not starting anymore.
Many regards
in my case #cs did the trick not slkc
Thanks for your tips. It is work for me #cs. I have a question that Is it any permanently solved this problem? Buy a new firmware eprom for replacement (i don’t know which is new firmware except Oleg Gritsev) OR repeat and repeat open case again and again……
This fuxk machine,it can not switched on at last year,but is still in warranty. I found LG for repair and cost nothing. What a fuxk machine ,it can not restarted on yesterday “again” and the warranty expired.I am really luck that l found this post. Thanks 0X13 !!!
I got a chip from ebay that is preprogrammed and replaced it, it worked. That’s the only way to really fix it once the chip has been corrupted.
Again this morning, I need to redo it & did not cover the back cover for further till i buy the chip. Thanks George Deierling.
Deierling,
I found in 3 pages in same item. Which one that you got to fix (10.95 ,9.95 , 9.5) ?
ManyThanks,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283212967402?ViewItem=&item=283212967402
I had to learn the hard way – when you replace the chip be very very gentle. The traces are tiny and come off easy.
Thanks Deierling.
Here is the correct firmware : http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin
Just get the CH341A programmer, and program this firmware onto the chip and it will work. This is the best way to do it, as there is no risk of breaking the board. And the programmers are cheap and easy to use.
Hi, is the firmware file still available anywhere? The link is dead
How do you program this eeprom without unsoldering it and risking of breaking the board?
I have this dead monitor since 3 years and wish to bring back life to it. Is it the CH341A programmer the best in 2022 or there is something easier/better to buy?
Hey, thanks for this! I’ve tried several times and have managed to get the monitor powering on and off like usual, though every time I unplug the mains power to re-build and move the monitor it will then fail to work.
Any idea how to remedy this?
Ta
Hi, just as recommendation: Open the menu, now open every submenu one-by-one and change something. When you exit properly you will have saved the new configuration. Power down the monitor using the button. Power it on back again using the button and see that everything works. Now pull the plug. It should work again after connecting the power.
You need reset all settings in menu and after shut down monitor by button.
Unplug it and plug it again and turn on by button.
If one day you can’t turn it on then need replace ROM because it degraded and ROM cannot keep data.
Incredible!!!!! it works for me.
I’m a novice about electronic but I could do it!!
Steps for my experience:
1. Remove back plastic cover with some old credit cards.
2. Remove (previous disconnect AC) metal cover on boards.
3. Set my Multimeter (I had a doubt about that point) to 20k on ohms(Ω), black wire to COM, and red wire to VΩHz⟳⦨º
4.After that, I put some boxes below monitor for I could see if power on while I touch positive board and SCLK leg with negative.
5. For me, #CS did the trick not SCLK.
While I touch some positive on board, my trembling hand touch on negative board and make a spark. I assumed it had spoiled everything. But miracle, when I see that screen light on!!!
After that, touch the joystick button to power off, and after power off by main button and disconnect AC.
Repeat this procedure 2 times, and all working very well.
And now this shitt* monitor is working again, thanks to you guys!!!
I really appreciate your time to write experience to solve this.
Thanks for the detail, Valo. Are you suggesting touching the negative board did the trick or that it just happened while following steps 1-5 but was Not the reason the monitor turned on. I’ve tried steps 1-5 and nothing. I’m tempted to tremble my hand over to the negative board. I’m desperate to fix this piece of *shi@t*
Worked perfectly. The quickest $1000 I ever saved!!! You da Man!!!
Did it as well, not sure if it was SCLK or #CS, tried both, monitor flashed with both but didn’t stay on, and then after another attempt to turn it on, it worked (without touching the chip). After that I changed settings, and knock on wood, it is still working. I would’ve loved to replace the chip but the guys on ebay are not shipping it to my country. Whatever, their loss.
One thing to be aware, which was not mentioned in the guide – after removing the back (which was the easy part), the metal housing needs to be flipped over to access the motherboard with the chip. I was really stomped for a few minutes as I assumed I was meant to remove the metal cover but it was not removable. To flip over the metal housing, 4 cables needed to be detached, 2 of them I think are going to backlights and the rest is speaker cables and control joystick cable. Just something I didn’t know I had to do when taking it apart lol 🙂
Anyways, thanks for the guide.
I can’t thank you enough for your post. I spoke to LG USA who put me in touch with their local authorized repair center. After a $75 diagnostic fee they informed me I needed to replace the BPR Total Assembly for a total charge including labor of $489.36. Seeing as a brand new monitor is $329, I cheerfully told them to go hump. It took me less than 10 minutes to jumpstart the flash chip. SCLK only worked once but CS and a little spark did the trick. Apparently, these screens like to shutdown properly. I’m going to try to get my diagnostic fee refunded. Anyone experiencing the same issue should definitely give this a try.
I just wanted to quickly comment and share my gratitude. I used this solution when my monitor died after a power outage and finally got it to boot after quite a bit of prodding.
I had a few issues getting the fix to stick. When ever I unplugged power it seemed to hang again.
I definitely recommend trying to change settings around in the menus to ‘save’ new’ settings when you manage to get the monitor to start up, and powering down with a long hold on the power button joystick.
Be sure to do a lot of testing before you put it all back together again, fully powering down turning off the power and unplugging.
For me “CS#” seemed to be the way to get it to boot, but only after repeated attempts and alternating with the “SCLK” ( in desperation…I mean trial and error)
Anyway, thanks a million!
For anyone reading this…jump-starting an EEPROM is a definitely lost cause for practical purposes.
After doing it a few times and monitor failing again within days I simply gave up.
A replacement EEPROM is really cheap at coppelltvrepair.com , but be careful in soldering it or you risk damaging the tracks around it, which is what I did.
Luckily coppell has a replacement board I was able to order.
It’s a good monitor and I like it except that failure.
Hi Michael, you have to enter the menu, adjust some settings and exit the menu properly to save the new settings. Otherwise you will keep the wrong state. My Monitor is now running since I repaired it without any issues. With powerloss, poweroff, sleep and so on. Just make sure you “touch” the config once it is booted! Best regards
Hi, Thanks for all this info. The process reset my board, I then modify all setup menu, then quit with menu : works perfect. Restart again no problem….. Except if I turn power off with the switch / or unplug it = does not restart. 😦
After conferring with a friendly electronics enthusiast I decided to use a 1 kOhm resistor to bridge from VCC to SCLK and after that VCC to CS. The display sprang to life. I think bridging using a multimeter and to 19V sounds risky. Kudos to putting together this page though. I wouldn’t have gotten close without it.
Mikael, stupid question but I need to ask. Do I jump VCC to SCLK then power on? Thanks!
I clicked on this site because I laughed at the title. Mirrored exactly how I felt. I gave it a whirl, followed the instructions to a T. Had to do it 3 times in total. I would suggest playing around with combinations of “switch on and off” and “cable unplugged / replugged” to make sure it turns on every time before screwing everything back together again. I had this board replaced at quite an expensive cost a few years back. I fixed it this time for free. Bonus. I’ve contacted LG when the screen recently failed and they weren’t too responsive. I’ll make sure I bring it too their attention. This shouldn’t be an issue.
In any case, thanks for the walkthrough. Excellently written. Cheers!
Thank you very much for documenting this – it worked on my side, too!
Opening up the case for the first time was the main problem, being afraid to break something, it took over half an hour.
Mikael’s trick with a 1k resistor from VCC to SCLK instantly revived my screen, after about one or two seconds – it works perfectly, no need for a multimeter!
Best regards and thanks again! Peter
I also greatly appreciate this guide. Like others I don’t feel I would have even known where to start without it. I’m currently going through the process, but of course mine has to be more difficult than others and my joystick menu button broke off some years ago, so I need to figure out a replacement for that to change menu settings.
Some things of note though, it’s a little funny to me, but what worked for me and I suspect will work for others is actually shorting pins 5 and 6. Something tells me that’s what people are doing as they fiddle with it. I did the resistor method with a 2k, and you can hear it change states as the electric whine from the power side changes, it does seem to affect it, but I noticed as I reorientated myself the ping sounded. Ironically I’ve just repeated it and it works with the screwdriver tip between 5 and 6 instantly like a charm. It’s possible there’s different error states for different people though I guess.
Now just to find a way to alter the menu without the switch… I’d rather not deal with this every time the power goes out.
Once again, thanks a ton for this page, it saved me around 700 dollars and afforded me a huge sigh of relief that it wasn’t a more serious issue.
I have to of these monitors, one died when I unplugged it without turning off. I tried all the steps many times, managed to get it to turn on once but I did not play with settings so it reverted to not turning back on. I gave up until yesterday my other monitor died after a sudden power outage. I disassembled it and tried and tried the steps with no luck. I decided to try the older monitor again and miraculously it pinged on. I shut it down gracefully this time and its working. The newer one that died yesterday is still dead despite further attempts. I tried all of the legs; not sure which one did the trick on the old one. So is this procedure temperamental? Can anyone explain why this procedure *sometimes* works – assuming nothing else is wrong with the monitor?
I have recently had this problem and found this awesome post. haven’t tried it yet but have read through all the comments and am fairly confident this is just a stuffed rom save on the flash chip as . I think Mikael was on the correct track, but the #CS leg is what is meant to be used. I read through the data sheet for the chip and found the following:
The device must not be selected during power-up and power-down stage until the VCC reaches the following levels:
– VCC minimum at power-up stage and then after a delay of tVSL
– GND at power-down
Please note that a pull-up resistor on CS# may ensure a safe and proper power-up/down level
So connecting the VCC to the #CS leg using a resistor, then changing and resaving settings via the monitor menu should fix the initial issue. I would think the next step is to find an updated firmware for the monitor and a reflash would permanently fix it
I just brought mine back to life with this method! I have a thunderbolt version 31mu97z and it works. Thank You!!!
A couple note from my experience. It did take me a long time to get it to turn on and I am not sure if it was the CS pin#1 or the SCLK Pin#6 that brought it back to life.
I did hold on each of those pins for many minutes a bunch of times and also tried the other pins to
Hey!
I had some power outages recently, and thought my monitor is toasted! Found this page, and connecting SCLK made it power on right away!!
Thank you very much! You saved me a lot of time and $$$!
Sandor
Just had to leave a note of thanks as well!! I followed your instructions and #CS worked for me. It took about 4 tries to get it to stick because unplugging would cause the problem to reappear. Blake7’s suggestion above (Posted Feb 2019) about long-pressing the power button to turn the monitor off did the trick. Do make sure to change some settings, then exiting the menu, then powering off via long-press.
In case anyone else is wondering (the instructions didn’t cover this part), you have to unscrew the metal housing AFTER you take the back cover off, then flip it over in order to access the chip in question. Sticky pads make pulling off the metal housing a little difficult, but give it a little force.
Thank you again!!!
First of all I want to express my infinite gratitude to the author for this great and detailed article. My gratitude goes also to everyone who shared his experience, a lot of information posted where critical during my attempt to make things work.
Anyway, in my case I needed to bring both CS pin #1 and SCLK Pin #6 to Vcc through a 1 Kohm resistor, several time before my 31mu97 came back to life.
Unfortunately, my monitor now works fine only if I turn it off through soft shutdown, that means by menu or long press joystick. If I cut power using the switch near the mains socket, the EEPROM falls again in crisis and the monitor does again refuse to power on.
As other user suggested, I’ll buy a pre-programmed MX25L8006E chip as soon as possible.
Thank you again!!
Thanks, this worked for my LG 31MU97-B. Was a bit hesitant, but it worked after many tries on the SCLK spot shown above. The first “ping” only happened _after_ I released the meter from the board (1min hold). The few times after that, it did not ping, or restart the monitor. But then after 4-5 times, it did ping again, and started up normally. Similar to others experience my we had a power outage, and the monitor wouldn’t restart.
I had a multi-meter, and was not real familiar with the setup described. But I set mine to the Volt section at 20, then cables on the COM and mAV.
Thank you so much for this fix. I have two of these monitors and I was able to get both of them going again with your fix. Thank you, thank you, thank you…………….
Hello,
i tried everything, several times. My LG 31MU97 is still dead…. piece of sh..
My soldering skills are not good enough to change the chip.
Greethings from Ger.
Thanks a lot for your help. Was about to throw away the display. Then i read this post here. For me #sclk -> multimeter -> vcc works fine. Did 3 or 4 cycles measuring voltage / power off / power. Then the display turned on with a “bing” sound.
Saved me a ton of £££ worked as described. I had no problem with the adhesive pad because I heated the back case with a hair dryer as I was ready to seperate the two parts. I was gutted when my prized 4k display failed, but thanks to your info it was only out of action for one day and cost me zero to fix.
here is a video demo taking off the back of the monitor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpWgPESOTfk
these methods haven’t worked for me yet. i think i will have to send the boards in somewhere. any suggestions?
i take that back. some how this process worked from one of my monitors but not the other one yet. not sure exactly what i did to get it to work on the one but hasn’t worked on the other yet.
Hello, I got the same problem with my 34UC97 from LG. The symptoms were no white Led, black screen. I solved the issue by following the process from above. A big thank you for the author of the article. I found your blog searching “IC205 lg eeprom” You have 2 ways to solve the problem :
– Option 1 : Follow the steps above which are :
put the power of the screen ON, then use a multimeter on DC position with the Red tip on 19V (the positive pin from the main power connector) and Black tip on CS# pin for 1minute then cut off the power. wait 15sec, power it up again. Do it again with SCLK pin for 1 minute (You will see the led blink, when you see it blink maintains the pins for another 15sec). then do it again with CS#.
if you didn’t see the led blink at all repeat the same process without cutting the power when changing from CS# pin to SCLK pin and vice versa.
At this time you screen will work again. You need to change some settings on the menu (anything) and save the changes in order to make the screen reprogram the eeprom for good. Now it will stay in working state.
– Option 2 : You buy on amazon or ebay this : “SOIC8 clip ch341A” (it must have the usb board with CH341A chip on it and separately the SOIC8 clip). that way you don’t need to solder/desolder anything.
you download the programmer software here : https://www.win-raid.com/t796f16-Guide-Using-CH-A-based-programmer-to-flash-SPI-EEPROM.html
Cut the power of your screen. Put on the clip on the IC205 chip with the red pin from the clip on CS# pin and the other side of the clip on the USB pcb on 25xx side with the red pin on pin 1.
Be sure twice the red pin is indeed CS# (with a multimer on test position between CS# pin from USB board and the red pin on the clip) because if it’s in the wrong position, you will burn out the chip.
Be careful too with the clip and the chip’s pins are very fragile so be gentle with it when you put it and remove it.
install the CH341A driver, if you use windows 10 you need to disable secure boot, and disable signature with this command “bcdedit /set testsigning off” in a CMD as administrator.
Connect the USB board on your computer.
Start the programmer, click on Detect, it will propose you some choices use the “MX25L8006E” or accordingly to the reference of your eeprom. then click on operate -> read, save the file, then program it with this file, then verify. If it succeed your screen is now repaired.
“read, save the file, then program it with this file,”
I dont get this, how would this solve anything? Reading and rewriting the same data?
Do you have the functional eeprom file? As that reading & rewriting did nothing for me.
Hello
Here is the correct firmware : http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin
Just get the CH341A programmer, and program this firmware onto the chip and it will work. This is the best way to do it, as there is no risk of breaking the board. And the programmers are cheap and easy to use.
Just reading & rewriting the same corrupted data wont work.
Good work! Thank you!
Yes it does work because the data are not corrupted only the checksum is (last bit of the firmware) which will be calculated automatically by the software when it uploads the firmware to the eeprom.
Be careful with the firmware because it is not the same for all LG screens.
Got it to start once, but the thing is.. i have no idea what i was doing. Just trying everything. But it did not start again after i cut the power. I did go into the menu and save and all that…
Forgot to mention, that i also accidentally shorted negative to the CS and got sparks. After that it started. Someone else also mentioned shorting this thing. But i would not really recommend doing that. But it has been the only way i got it to start.. none of this metering worked for me at all.
I am eternally grateful 🙏 I had a 24h stress but I got over it before the end of the weekend and that’s thanks to your article. If you ever come to Belgium, I’ll pay you a beer. Took me almost an hour of playing around with the multimeter but it finally worked with SLNK although it also started to work but not long enough with CS. Thanks again!
Got a 34U87C-B with the same problem. I attempted the OP’s method (I think PIN 2 is the one ultimately that made it turn on) and it worked until I turned the monitor off. I haven’t gotten it to turn on since. I’ve tried dumping and rewriting the firmware. I’ve tried Noah’s more methodical method. I’m not sure where people are finding these .bin’s, but that’s what I’ll try next, then I’ll try replacing the eeprom. Thanks
Hey, did you get it to work? My 34UC87-B has exactly the same problem, and I turned it on after doing the Multimeter thing and it does not turn on after it’s unplugged, I’m trying reprograming using the 31MU97 pin, if not working going to replace the eeprom
Thanks a lot for this post, it helped me save my screen. I used Mikael’s method and after a few tries and me almost giving up, it finally sprang to life.
By Dec 2019 we’ve serviced a few of those boards with damaged processors and we are fairly certain they all are direct result from trying to manually booting the board as described in this blog.
Do not mean to criticize or be final instance – I am well aware there will always be those pro and those against.
Plus we’re honestly thankful for the exposure and links to us, so we can’t be ungrateful.
Yet fact remains that some people do damage the boards while trying to do the wrong thing and manually boot their boards.
I for one was never able to boot a board and make it come up on its own after changing settings and shutting down; replacing the EEPROM was the only solution.
And there are actually more people who damage the SMDs around the EEPROM while trying to replace it than those damaging the boards.
Just FYI.
Here’s a video we made about damaged processor:
Note there’s no guarantee that if the processor is shocked with 20V it’ll be this particular pin on the EEPROM that will read low – it may be any other…depends on where and how the damage will be done.
Hello, I had the same problem, You help me a lot. after few try it work. LG service is kind of disaster.
Excellent post. My extended (5y total) lg warranty expired 10 days before I had this problem so one can imagine the level of frustration… I unplugged the monitor to move to a different outlet. It never came back up. I payed around $1500 for this monitor (including the never used extended warranty) in 2014 so I figured around $300/y for a monitor should not yet be fully amortized. Here is what I did and worked:
1. I bought a 27$ digital multimeter from Lowes
2. unplugged all cables
3. opened the cover (there are some youtube videos on it), just used some plastic cards
4. unplugged the speakers and took out the joystick from it’s place so I can easily flip the circuits
5. unscrewed the metal cover containing the circuits and flipped it over
6. put the multimeter on 20kohm
7. put a plastic bag on the left board (the one with the AC current) – just to make sure I’m not touching stuff
8. connected the power
7. with the multimeter, I connected the + on one wire with CS# (bottom right) on the chip – as shown in the pictures from the post. I had to do it a couple of times, switch off from the joystick, swich back on – a few times until all worked without me resetting stuff again.
8. disconnect the power, assembled back and all works as it did before!
best 27$ and 1h spendings of my life…
Thank You!
WOW, Thank you it worked for me too.
I have to bridge the CS# but worked just like you said.
thank you
EE here. I decided to take the safer route and re-flash the EEPROM.
The nice thing is that you don’t take the risk of damaging other components of the board and you don’t need to do any soldering. Noah put very good instructions above (and others)… I’m repeating some here for my own future reference.
– Ordered the CH341A programmer with a clip ($10): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R8S8V4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
– There is a good video on how to use the device above for those that are not familiar with the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y06x1f22B0&list=FLdZsDeKtUG1XlyW7hXgVfog&index=2&t=0s
The video explains in detail how to do it in a Linux or Windows operating system. This is the software you will need to download to use the CH341A programmer installed in your notebook: https://www.sendspace.com/file/gtcmvd
(The software is available in many sites btw, v1.3 or above should work fine)
– Open the monitor removing the back (good instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpWgPESOTfk&list=FLdZsDeKtUG1XlyW7hXgVfog&index=4&t=0s )
– Using the software and instruction in the video above, first erase the software (don’t forget to erase first or you will get an error message) and then write using the monitor software for the EEPROM chip: http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin
– Unplug everything and check if you can turn on the monitor.
– Reassembly the monitor carefully
Some thoughts:
– The lg31mu97.bin downloaded from the link above seemed to have a problem with the EDID and my computer would just recognize it as a ‘Generic PnP Monitor’. So, since now the monitor would turn on I had to go to the ‘service menu’ (instructions here: https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?t=4100 , disconnect the DP cable or any graphics cable to access the service menu, I had to try several times) and perform 2 steps: WRITE EDID (change it to Yes) and NVRAM INT (change it to yes). This will ‘rewrite’ the EEPROM from an internal copy. Turn off and on, reboot your computer and it should now show LG 31MU97 in the Windows Device Manager Monitors and work properly with your graphics card.
– When performing the steps above, I realized, that maybe I should have just plugged the programmer and try to turn on the monitor without erasing or writing anything. I wonder if the small voltage applied by the CH341A programmer would resuscitate the EEPROM and then I could use the monitor own ‘service menu’ to rewrite the EEPROM. Someone in this thread can confirm if this step (just plugging the programmer could ‘wake’ the EEPROM, most likely not).
Cost of repair: $10
hi,
i have still problem with ” ‘Generic PnP Monitor’”.
if i put “WRITE EDID” on yes, it somehow jump back to no.
any tipps ?
thx
EE here. I decided to take the safer route and re-flash the EEPROM. The nice thing is that you don’t take the risk of damaging other components of the board and you don’t need to do any soldering. Noah put very good instructions above (along with others)… I’m repeating some steps here for my own future reference.
– Ordered the CH341A programmer with a clip ($10): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R8S8V4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
– There is a good video on how to use the CH341A programmer for those that are not familiar with the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y06x1f22B0&list=FLdZsDeKtUG1XlyW7hXgVfog&index=2&t=0s
The video explains in detail how to do the programming in a Linux or Windows operating system. This is the software you will need to download and install in your notebook to use the CH341A programmer: https://www.sendspace.com/file/gtcmvd
(The CH341A software is available in many sites btw, v1.3 or above should work fine)
– Open the monitor removing the back (good instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpWgPESOTfk&list=FLdZsDeKtUG1XlyW7hXgVfog&index=4&t=0s )
– Using the CH341A programming software and instructions in the video above, first erase the software (don’t forget to erase first or you will get an error message) and then write using the monitor software for the EEPROM chip: http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin
– Unplug everything and check if you can turn on the monitor.
– If you can turn on the monitor, reassembly it carefully
Some thoughts:
– The lg31mu97.bin downloaded from the link above seemed to have a problem with the EDID and my computer would just recognize it as a ‘Generic PnP Monitor’. So, since now the monitor would turn on I had to go to the ‘service menu’ and perform 2 steps: WRITE EDID (change it to Yes) and NVRAM INT (change it to yes). This will ‘rewrite’ the EEPROM from an internal copy. Turn the monitor off and on, reboot your computer and it should now show LG 31MU97 in the “Windows Device Manager Monitors” list and work properly with your graphics card. (Note: you can find instructions on how to access the service menu here: https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?t=4100 . Important: disconnect the DP cable or any graphics cable to access the service menu, I had to try several times to be able to access the service menu)
– When performing the steps above, I realized, that maybe I should have just plugged the programmer and try to turn on the monitor without erasing or writing anything. I wonder if the small voltage applied by the CH341A programmer would resuscitate the EEPROM and then I could use the monitor own ‘service menu’ to rewrite the EEPROM. Someone posting in this thread in the future can confirm if this works: just plugging the programmer to ‘wake’ the EEPROM (most likely not, but I will try that next time if the problem reoccurs).
Cost of repair: $10
Hello,
I’d like to
a) thank you all for your comments and experience reports!!!!
b) share my own experiences:
The multi-meter trick did not work for me, nor did any disabling of the memory chip. Instead, several DCDC converters on the board kept turning on and of periodically (approx. once per second, one could hear the periodic noise). It did not help to override the DCDC enable control.
So, I ordered the CH341A programmer (in Switzerland here: https://www.esons.ch/pi/CH341A-Bios-Programmer-mit-Clip-zum-Flashen-von-PC-und-GPU-Bios-Chips.html),
and downloaded the software here: https://www.win-raid.com/t796f16-Guide-Using-CH-A-based-programmer-to-flash-SPI-EEPROM.html (zip link at the bottom of the page)
Circuit diagram is here: https://www.onetransistor.eu/2017/08/ch341a-mini-programmer-schematic.html (link to the zip at the bottom of the page)
Note: I run Windows 10, there was no need to install a driver. Just unzip the folder from the above link, and run the CH341A.exe.
The firmware is here (as mentioned above): http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin
Now: reading, detecting, programming in-circuit did not work for me. So, I removed the IC 205 and soldered it to the little adapter board that comes with the programmer.
Auto-detect did not work either. So, I set
Type: 25 SPI Flash
Manufacturer: MXIC
Neme: MX25V8005 (seems to be the same; 8006 was not available in the list)
Then, it was possible to read, erase and write with the above mentioned .bin file. After that, I put the IC back to the main board, and: tadaaaa – the monitor works again!
And: no problems at all- it worked as before.
While doing the research, I found various offerings for programmed ICs such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-31MU97-B-MAIN-BOARD-62882801-31MU97-LM41C-EAX66105904-EEPROM-IC205-ONLY/160560702381
So, maybe getting on of those would be the easier and faster method.
Now: why did the monitor stop to work: I figured that the graphics adapter (1080Ti) must have some problem, either hardware or driver: sometimes, there were effects on the screen that looked like power outages or contact problems of the display port cable. I suspect a problem with that port, so I connected the monitor to another one.
Anyway, thank you again for all your comments that helped me to solve the problem. Who would guess that this particular flash memory could be responsible!
Hi Bernhard,
thanks a lot for your instructions!
I was able to repair my broken display on the first try, even in-circuit with the clip.
One thing I changed, the IC205 on my board is MX25L8006 (not the V type), so I chose the L type in the programmer software.
Now I wonder how to prevent this outage in the future. I guess I have to shut down the display manually before switching off the multi-socket-outlet.
Another data point…shorting CS# to SCLK through a multimeter set to 20kOhms worked for me…just needed to do it a couple times before it took.
I have got the monitor open, but I’m not seeing any voltage anywhere? I put my meter in voltage mode and test across the + section and – section pictured next to the eeprom in this article and I get nothing.
I assume everyone else is seeing 19v? Anyone else seen a dead power supply on these monitors?
I’m not seeing any voltage on the low side – so yeah I think my power supply is not working. I’ve already replaced the IC but no change, and bridging the 19V to SCLK isn’t going to do anything if there’s no power…
Did you get anywhere?
So, I got the back cover off, I have the programmer and I am a little concerned about the interior shield.
I removed the 4 screws. Do I need to remove all the cables that intersect the shield and pull the entire shield assembly off ? It does not seem to be moving easily. There are 4 standoffs for the vesa mount. I assume I don’t need to unscrew those to remove the shield assembly. Is that correct?
Pictures here – https://photos.app.goo.gl/1vA3veHtJ1xbpFCf7
If I pull on the edge of the shield, it will move – all the way around, but it seems like something is still connecting it to the … not sure what that is – back of the LCD shield? The standoffs for the VESA mount move with the whole shield, so I think those are fine. is there just some sticky stuff in the center? Also, the entire assembly under the shield seems to move when I try to dislodge it. Do I need to remove all the cables and peel it off what is there or does it come off as a single piece?
Also, what are the 4 black tabs on the edge in one picture?
THANKS!
Helloo–
I tried the programming with the chip still on the main board. Did not work for me. I had to unsolder it and put it on the little adapter board. Then it worked 🙂
So, some more prying – the assembly was just stuck to some more foam pads. I disconnected the cables on the side and flipped it along the long axis so the ribbon cables weren’t being stressed.
Now the early part of the thread said next to the power connector, you find the IC205 chip. Hmm, I have two boards – the IC205 chip is on the second board, not near the power switch, but that set of grey cables could very well be power into P700. It looks like the chip on the second board is the correct one based on the image at the top of the thread.
I am going to attempt to flash it and will take some additional pictures and post them to that photos link for anyone else that happens to have this happen to them
And more to my personal drama – I downloaded the CH341A programmer software from above, but the chip MX25L8006E wasn’t in the list. I grabbed the 1.34 version and was able to read my chip. It was detected as one of 4 options – MX25L8005, MX25L806E, MX25L8036E, MX25V8005 2.5v. This is likely in a database for this particular flavor of CH341A programming software.
I used the 8006E as mentioned above.
My rom size when read is 1048576. This differs from the ROM size listed above. When I try to program either ROM, I get this error message on verify …”Chip Main Memory with the contents are in disagreement”. The file sizes for the LGxxx.bin file differs from the one read from the chip. That said, I saved a version of the ROM I originally read and it complains when I write it back to the chip as well.
Bad CH341A software ?
Also, if I read the rom and write it back without saving it, the message is that the ROM is identical.
A (final) update – I was able to find a version of the CH341a software that did not complain about the firmware being incorrect. I used the above posted .bin file to flash the chip while it was still on monitor board and it came back to life. The clip I used was finicky, but eventually it worked.
I have two of these monitors and they are from different years (2014 and 2016 I believe). The 2016 model had a different power on noise prior to flashing the IC205. Now they sound identical.
I got 2 of the eeproms from Coppell TV Repair and will grab the firmware from one of those and use it the next time one of my monitor dies.
Really glad to have found this thread! Thanks to all those who have come before that made this possible.
Finally i used LG service firmware update software. Much simply. contact to LG to obtain it.
Hi Alex, can you post the firmware update software you received? That’d be super awesome for everyone to have the official fix that you were able to fix yours with! Thx in advance!
Just in case anyone needs a board, i have one an other 100% working parts for this model, except the LCD screen which is broken. Please contact me by email joaomourinho [at] gmail [dot] com
I am based in Portugal but i can ship worldwide.
Good day to all,
We would like to thank Integer13 for helping us reviving our monitor. I am surprised that LG has not been proactive regarding this fault or indeed, built-in obsolescence which probably affects thousands of customers.
We had the same exact issues with our LG 31MU97-B bought in 2015 (wouldn’t start, dead, nothing when pushing the on button) and my wife and I booked a covid19 lockdown weekend to follow your detailed information. Bridging the #CS leg woked better for us but I have to say that I tried to bridge each leg with + on the board and I had to do it over several minutes, my wife trying the On switch/joystick every time. It would then eventually bleep and miracle, switch on! If you soft switch it off, unplug, reassemble it in a few seconds, switch it on again, monitor starts again. BUT, at this point, I am not sure that given a power outage, it would wake up again. I tested it previously, long switch off, unplugging it, waiting a few minutes, and monitor would go back to dead again mode, then back to dismantling the back, bridging the chip, bleep, start again.
I also have tried ds 11111’s service menu trick – thanks for that- (soft switch off, joystick left,left, left, then right, switch on, menu, service menu appears) but I could not get the “WRITE EDID” to stay in “YES” mode, it would go back to “NO” – but when trying the “NVRAM INIT”, monitor switched off and would not switch on anymore – back to dead again mode. By that time, we were highly trained and we revived it using the bridging with multimeter. I am thinking about re-flash, we are happy to be able to have the monitor working again and we are grateful to all of you for the help.
I just used this to fix my LG 34UM95 monitor. It sat dead for just over 2 years. I was minutes away from packing up the mainboard and sending it off to a repair shop. Thought I’d give this one last shot and held my meter between 19V and alternated between the clock and CS pins. Finally it came to life and seems to be working fine now.
hey there, i have the same model. how long did you play/alternate with the IC?
i turned my monitor off and removed the cable to move it a little, since then it won’t turn on. did you had a similar issue?
i tried it with my multimeter, i will give it a try with a 100k Ohm resistor and maybe 10k as well today
Hello,
Exactly the same phenomenon over here, LG 31MU97 from december 2014 dead after after a power outage.
Tried to do this revive thing, only with VCC and a 1K resistor, and with the help of younger eyes and hands, but didn’t work.
I reckoned that it would be safer to talk to the flash memory properly, and ordered the CH341 programmer. After looking into it, I realized it’s just a USB-to-SPI bridge, and looked into programming from a raspberry pi.
So I ordered just the blue clip for in-system programming.
I followed this tutorial https://youtu.be/KNy-_ZzMnG0 which talks about PC bios recovery with a raspberry, same flash chip.
I did not need to unsolder the chip, I just connected the in-system clip to the raspberry with jumper wires, according to the connection scheme seen at 9:50 in this video. (Mind the orientation when connecting the clip on the LG31MU97 ! The LG31MU97 should NOT be powered !)
Communication immediately worked, and I followed the tutorial to save the old firmware, verify it, then write the lg31mu97.bin refered higher in this thread.
After disconnecting the raspberry clip, connected the power cable, HW switch on, press the joystick switch and boom! Alive and shining again…
Will do a few power cycles before putting it back together…
So, many thanks for creating this thread !!
Anyone knows if the LG 34UM95 hast the same software on this IC?
Otherwise i will try to save the code form the current one with very smooth desoldering
and reflash a new chip. Oh my, i hope this is the error, but it’s seems like multiple people have this issue,
Ok for anyone having the same issues on the 34UM95,
it’s here the same problem with the IC205 on the board.
i just uploaded the original code to the IC and the display is now working again.
I payed a guy on ebay for the code.
Seems like the bits were corrupted when turning the device off.
Hey Gie,
can you maybe upload the firmware? I have a 35UM95-P, but i want to try it anyway.
I read the old firmware and rewrite it to the IC, but no difference. Then i took the 31UM97 Firmware and now my monitor blinks every 5 seconds for less then 0,1seconds. So i think its a firmware problem 🙂
Thanks alot!
the link will be alive for one week:
https://wetransfer.com/downloads/94afb86f4e721b33797f87192e4b8a3c20200803195439/75b43c4bac40a10b56289fb361cc2b2420200803195450/2312c1
if the firmwire works, give some money to a charity and support some poor kids
Hi, Do you still have the BIN file?
Thank you
Hi,
Could you please reupload the firmware. I am very desperate , I need the monitor for my work. Thank you.
Thank you so much. God bless you and your family ❤
I will spend some € to a children's hospice.
If it is okay to you i will make a post with this Firmware and a Tutorial with the hint and request to spend some bucks to charity of their choice, if the firmware works to there monitor.
Could you upload the firmware? 😀
Hello,
could you share the code for ic205 34um95 ? I will be very grateful 🙂
Thanks,
upload this somewhere permanently and share the link -> this link is available for 1 week:
https://wetransfer.com/downloads/c018367896657cbe90b7fa196caaa4fc20210118111018/d994fcfb578040a15ef5a1505a7fe6af20210118111030/a176cf
Hi Gie, thank you! I have added the bin file inside a word document (Check the top of the article) & Let me know if this works! Thanks!
God belss you!!
permanent link -> https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3769527.html
I have tried it and after that procedure it heard a sound. After I assembled everything I wanted to plug in my notebook but unfortunately it always say there is no signal. Never mind which input I try.
Anyone had this effect?
You guys are awesome!
Thank you!
I found only this thread.
I have LG 34UM95 P.
I didn’t have voltmeter, but I found a few new resistors in the attic, when I was younger I wanted build a metal detector. So, I carrefully opened the plastic back of the monitor with a hard credit card. Then I was finding the IC205 chip on the board, I thought there was nothing like that chip with that number, I finaly found it. Then I was checked the lines of resistor and choose 6k8, pluged in the power plug and switched the power switch. I tried connect for a while the pin 8 VCC and pin 6 SCLK, nothing happend, then I tried VCC with #CS, nothing worked. I tried to push and hold the power button, switching the power switch and nothing worked, but I tried it only few times and the connecting the pin was only for few seconds. Then I took the 680 Ohm resistor, started again, power on, and connected the VCC with SCLK until the monitor just will be work, I thought. (sorry for my English). It takes about 20-30 sec, I don’t know, but look, monitor is on. I immediately lifted up the monitor and clicked with the power button to the menu and reseted the monitor to the factory setting. Now the monitor looks like is working again :-). I had same issue but not with the monitor, but with the Mac mini, it is also about reseting the motherboard, but the motherboard in this case is whole computer. No one can fix it. I had to build lowcost computer with the Windows, actualy I am satisfied, and the computer is much much better for the price than the new Mac mini motherboard and I long time dreamed for such powerfull station.
Greetings from Czech!
Many thanks to you guys. I just got my 31MU97-B fixed today and want to share my experience here.
The multimeter jump start hack doesn’t work for me, so I went through the CH341A programmer path. Today my CH341A programmer was delivered and I tried it immediately. To save the time of anyone who wants to try the programmer, this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWWigscuQDY is a good start. And the file link https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByEQKtsOckWBUVBqajZOUGtLcnM/view helps a lot too.
However, the first try failed. Programming was successful but I still could not get it power on. Before the second try, I verified the chip content and it showed different from the firmware file. And then I tried to flash the firmware a few times but the verification always failed. At last, I erased the chip first and confirmed all bytes were FF and then flash it again. It worked and passed the verification! The lesson learned is to always erase before flash it.
Hope my experience helps! Thanks again!
Repair ok thanks i have a copy of file .bin
Thank you all so much for this thread and experiences. I’m stuck in the same situation.
At first, i tried it all out and got that spark. I thought it was dead. b=But then it worked. I heard the ping and the monitor went on. I switched the power off to make sure it was going to work again, but now it doesn’t work again. I’ve tried many of the solutions here but I haven’t replaced the part just yet (I want to avoid soldering but I can). I can hear the Star Trek alarm, and if I bridge the SCLK the alarm stops and stays at a consistent pitch. So there’s something going on there.
I also noticed that not all the legs are hitting at 18.5 V. Many of them are but SO/SIO1 and WP# are reading at about 14-15V. Sometimes they fluctuate up to 17. Is that something to worry about?
Do you think the next step is for me to buy the replacement part? This one? http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/1483/lg-31mu97-b-main-board-62882801-31mu97lm41c-eax66105904-eeprom-replacement-ic
Thanks in advance. I hope this thread isn’t dead.
SAFETY FIRST Always wear safety goggles when working with electronics.
Thank you for this thread! Wanted to share my experience. I had the same issue as all of you. The voltage meter jump did not work. It worked for a moment, I got a spark, but then it all shut down. So I knew it was the EEPROM. I ordered the piece that you need, I’ve included the link below. The one at the top doesn’t work. Soldering is not my favorite thing to do, but I did it. It’s more simple than ya=ou might think. Watch some videos online, (which you can find many EEPROM replacement tutorials). Not all of them are good, and you don’t actually need a lot of solder. In fact, you need so little, that you have to get the solder, and then use the sponge to get just miniscule bits.
Use the tip of the iron at a 90 degree angle facing downards to heat up the broken EEPROM, and then do the same thing to put on the new one. Make sure each of the legs are touching the bottom AND that none of the solder is bridging the other legs. I made sure it turned on and it did! Super stoked. For some reason the turn on noise is now different, but I don’t care about that.
The peice you want is THIS —–>LG 31MU97-B MAIN BOARD 62882801 / 31MU97/LM41C / EAX66105904 EEPROM IC205
LINK HERE — > https://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-31MU97-B-MAIN-BOARD-62882801-31MU97-LM41C-EAX66105904-EEPROM-IC205-ONLY/160560702381?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Now I know to make sure the power is off before I unplug.
Thank you so very much for this!
My monitor is the LG 34UC97, same as Noah. It refused to come on after I flipped a circuit breaker in my house while dealing with an unrelated issue. I thought I’d killed this monitor for good.
After disassembly, I was able to find IC205 and jump-start it. Truthfully, I don’t know exactly which step worked. The way I had the board positioned required me to unhook the speakers so I had no audio feedback and the LED is apparently off by default. Things I tried:
-Jumping from 19V to the CS pin for varying lengths of time through a multimeter set to volts.
-Jumping from 19V to the SCLK pin for varying lengths of time through a multimeter set to volts.
-Doing a “sweep” of all the chip pins from 19V though a multimeter set to volts.
-Jumping DIRECT from the VCC pin (pin8) to the CS pin for for varying lengths of time.
-Jumping DIRECT from the VCC pin (pin8) to the SCLK pin for for varying lengths of time.
-Doing a “sweep” of all the chip pins from VCC.
I realized something was different when listening intently to the sound coming form the board. While in the broken state, there was a regular high-frequency “pulse” every second or so, barely audible but apparently my ears are still pretty good! I assume this was a boot loop caused by the bad state. When fixed, there was a continuous sound from the board. I lifted the monitor up and found that it had come to life!
I quickly did a factory reset on it, not sure if that’s needed but I figured it would be the safest. I’m typing this out on my resurrected LG. Thank you again!
I used the programmer mentioned from Amazon with Ch341 programmer v 1.38, lg firmware and it worked perfect;y.
Hello
I have a LG 34UM95-P monitor that does not turn on due to a power problem and I would like to ask if someone can re-upload the firmware of this monitor to try to update the flash memory again.
Thank you
Thanks for writing this up. With a little work, it saved me from needing to get a new screen after our power went out.
I wasn’t able to get it to work using the 19V to pin 6 like suggested, but it put me on the path to a solution that worked for me:
1. with the power off, ground pin 6 (SCLK) using a 5.6K resistor to pin 4 (GND)
2. switch on power and wait a few seconds
3. when the screen lights up, go in to the settings and do a reset followed by changes to a each page of settings
4. go to standby with the 5-way controller
5. power off with the switch
I was messing around with either grounding (pin 4) or pulling high (Vcc – pin 8) to different pins: CS# (pin 1), HOLD# (pin 7), and SCLK (pin 6). SCLK worked for me but YMMV. I had to try it about 8-10 times before it worked. I don’t think the 5.6k resistor value is important, you just want something with a couple thousand ohms so that any current is minimal. Connecting to either ground or 3.3V Vcc via a resistor should be much lower risk of frying something on the main board than 19V through a multimeter. Just watch that power supply board or you’ll get shocked.
I ordered the replacement chip from Coppell as well, but since this worked I probably won’t need it.
Thanks again!
Hi There, Can we still get the firmware somewhere ? I rteally wish I could flash and revive mine ? Thank’s
I, too, have my own experience to add to this:
Both the chip select pin (pin 1) and the serial clock pin (pin 6) seem to be involved in resetting the chip permanently. If you listen carefully, you can hear a hint of what’s going on through inductor coil whine tones and patterns: at first, the coils whine in a low repeated tone with pauses in between, but once you pull the chip select pin low (short to ground – pin 1 to pin 4), the coil whine changes to a higher pitch continuous tone. At this point, you can power cycle the monitor using the flip switch near the power plug (wait a few seconds for the coil whine sound to disappear before turning it back on), and pull the serial clock pin high (short to VCC – pin 6 to pin 8) in a tapping pattern until you hear the power on chime.
For me, only shorting the serial clock pin to VCC was not successful in making the result survive between power cycles (I tried a bunch of times). Only after performing the above procedure did the result stick and the monitor was “repaired”.
You don’t need a multimeter, just a pair of tweezers since you’re shorting individual pins on the chip itself. You don’t have to touch the power supply connector at all.
Thank you so much!!!! This process worked for me, I am very grateful!!!!
the sounds are exactly as you described. For anyone looking for the actual procedure.. this is it!
Btw my monitor is the 34uc97-s
I just had to do this a third time, and while the second time was identical to the procedure I posted above, that didn’t work this time.
The coil whine tones and patterns were different and seemed to be constantly changing without any discernible rhyme or reason, and it took me many attempts to properly revive the monitor and get the result to stick.
One thing I did notice right away was that in its semi-dead state, the monitor showed up via DisplayPort as a fixed 640×480 monitor. No other options available. Even when I temporarily revived it, it would light up and show a 640×480 image. Once I had *properly* revived it, it immediately showed up to my PC as a 4096×2160 display. So even before power cycling, if you only get 640×480, it’s not fixed.
What ended up working this time for me, was to short the SCLK high as described before (pin 6 to pin 8), but to do so continually tapping the pins with tweezers while also flipping the power switch on, and off, and on, and off, until: *bong* it came on at 4K resolution and has been working since.
Another thing I noticed is when you mess too much with the chip select pin, you sometimes get a repeating wooshing sound from the speaker. It startled me at first, but it appears to be harmless; just some glitching.
I brought my LG 34UC87-B back to life.
To be on the safe side, I ordered the IC205 from coppelltvrepair.com and installed it. No problems since then.
Many, many thanks.
Hi how did you do it? I have the same monitor and cant find the Bin file anywhere
Seems all of the download links above are dead, does anyone still have a link or can share again?
Hello everyone I got a quick question 🙂
Recently my LG 34UC87C-B went bad after a outage and I tried the method described in the OP’s article and it works.
Problem is it won’t “stick” aka after I pull the plug to reassemble my Monitor it won’t work anymore.
Tried it a few times.
Question now is does my LG 34UC87C-B use the same IC205 Chip Firmware as the LG 34UC97C-B mentioned in the article or not?
I can’t seem to get my hands on the 87C firmware… I can only find the 97C FW.
LG’s support won’t give it to me either 😛 they just said it’s a “Plug and Play” update… whatever that means, and that I should send my Monitor in. Yeah Right haha.
Would really appreciate any help!
Regards,
Duke
I think you can simply try. You can always reprogram it with any firmware. You can first download your old form the chip and save it. I dont see how you can lose anything by trying.
The firmware is from the chip sold in ebay. And i think my monitor was also a different model and it worked fine.
Hi how did you do it? I have the same monitor and cant find the Bin file anywhere
Does anybody have the LG 34uc97-S firmware please?
Thank you very much, it helped me a lot, I had the same issue described, I used the multimeter to do the trick and it worked several times, the only issue is that it’s not holding on, I tried everything, I did more than 10 times, I changed the menu settings and saved, powered on and off holding the menu button before and no luck, any tips ?
Thank you
Thought I’d add my comment since this thread helped me fix my 31MU97C-B. Ordered a CH341A programmer, took the cover off, attached the clip to the 8006E chip, plugged into my laptop, used the software to erase the EEPROM (it was empty/FF across the board when I plugged it in) and then wrote the 31MU97 bin file that I found on this page.
Plugged it in and it works again. Thanks!
Yeah, just had to do it again. Lets keep that firmware up! So people don’t have to buy chips. I bought the chip and downloaded the firmware from it and posted it here. Also because i knew i had to do it again at some point, so at least there is one good resource for this.
So, I was able to get the monitor to temporarily power on using the voltmeter trick, but once I removed actual AC power, it would revert, and not power back on (and you could hear the power supply whining as it cycles).
As some others had mentioned, I used a raspberry pi model 3, and an 8-pin SOIC clip, and some jumper wires, and was able to reprogram the chip w/ the firmware mentioned in the above comments.
Make sure the monitor is completely unplugged, connect the chip clip, power on the raspberry pi, backup the old eeprom, and write and verify the new eeprom code.
I then powered off the pi, disconnected the chip clip, and applied power to the monitor.
I no longer heard the power supply cycle whining, and when I pushed the menu switch, it worked!
Thanks everybody for all the info here.
Thank you so much! Helped me jumpstart my LG 34UC97-S after it did not come up one day suddenly. I disassembled it completely so I could plug in all connectors and still flip the board (after removing the duct tapes).
For me the sequence was
– connect voltmeter between 19V and SCLK (no reaction)
– then connect voltmeter between 19V and CS# pin – that worked after a few seconds, heard the well known sound and the joystick began to glow.
– Did a “Reset settings” and change language, a few on off cycles with power still connected (via onscreen menu). Then tested with turning off (via backside switch) and later via disconnecting power. So far the screen still works.
Best Regards
Martin
0x13, thanks for creating this post.
In the Word document you shared in Update 2, the firmware name is 34um95-p.bin. Please confirm that this is actually the firmware for the LG 34UM95-P model, as I need the firmware for this model.
Best regards
Just an FYI for anyone flashing the IC205 chip. I used software version 1.32 with the .bin file above successfully. 1.34 and 1.30 did not work properly.
I used 1.29. I remember that some of the version did not work. Just had to do it again 🙂 Accidentally ripped the power cord off the monitor…. dead.
Next time im going to solder wires on the chip and make a port for this. Amazing bullshit from LG.
Hi I would like to share my experience.
First I read the instruction above and it said ammeter so I’ve set my multimeter to read amp and I have burned my chip.
Ordered new chip, found firmware from comments on here the name of file is called 31mu97.bin and I have flashed it however no luck, monitor still stucked, I though I might have damaged the Novatek’s cpu however I have tested all the voltage and was fine, I’ve had 3.3 on the chip, and 19v next to the chip.
I was carefully scrolling and studying ALL THE COMMENTS and find out that I need to set my multimeter to read OHMS at 20k. Did that + to CS (1 pin) – to VCC (8 pin) sound from the coils sounded like they are restarting however still no boot up, so i tried VCC and SCLK = no luck, tried all of them = no luck, at the end I found comment basically that was saying push the power button after each try and…
Viola ! 🙂 Worked! Good luck guys.
Had a 34UM95-P (thunderbolt) stop working this morning. Had a power outage yesterday and before going through soldering a new chip, I wanted to at least try the jump start solution. However, I can’t find anything on the board that says P700 (I did find IC205) and do not know where to connect the positive lead of my multimeter. There is no toggle switch on the power supply, you just plug it in and there’s power to the monitor.
I tested the power supply by connecting the positive lead to the output jack and the negative to the side of the jack and it reads 19V as it should. However, when you connect the power supply to the board there’s nowhere I can find to touch the positive lead to jump start the IC205 EEPROM.
Never mind on the original question. I was able to jump start it and got it back and working. Woohoo!
I grabbed the new bin file from the link above to update the firmware, but someone mentioned being able to contact LG support and get the service software to perform the update. I have spent the morning on the phone with them and no one seems to know anything about firmware or that it is even available to be updated. Can anyone post the LG service software for the 34UM95-PD?
Thanks!
You shouldn’t believe everything you read online.
Here: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3769527.html 🙂
Thank you for the detailed instructions. Unfortunately I have the LG 31MU97Z-B model variant. Does this have the same firmware as 31MU97-B? Could anyone provide the firmware for this model variant please?
i have the same model. tried the file for the 31MU97 and the monitor is still not showing any signs of life.
I accidentally lifted a resistor near the IC205, that’s why it was not booting. It’s powering fine now with 31MU97 firmware but I’m not sure all features are working with it, has the Z monitor version has thunderbolt ports and the non Z versions doesn’t have them.
Well, the problem has occurred again, about a year and half after I successfully resuscitated my 31MU97 following original instructions. The hell of it, I’m running it on a UPS and decided to shut off the UPS during a particularly long power outage which messed up the monitor. I guess I should’ve shut down the monitor properly (joystick and then power button) first to avoid the issue, otherwise it’s always in standby. This time I tried Muf’s ideas posted above, I was too skittish about delivering 19v to 3.3v chip again lol 🙂 It worked, and with a tweezer of all things lol, just shorting the chip legs (1&4, 6&8), and monitor came alive again. I’ll post again if anything happens again lol
Thanks for this long read!! 🙂
Having spent £1000 on a 31MU97 just a few years ago I didn’t want to see it go to monitor heaven. Our power tripped when the screen was on so this was a handy find (and too much of coincidence that it was working fine just before).
I already had a SPI programmer and clip from my day job 😉 and honestly the whole jump start thing seemed electronically wrong and risky to me as I think the Coppell TV folks said. 19V to a 3.3V EEPROM is not a good idea and I think it is a bit lucky if this worked.
The trickiest part was getting the back of the screen off correctly. I read the contents of the EPROM, saved it and first tried to reprogram it with that but it seemed the contents of the ROM must have been corrupt, not just the checksum.
I reprogrammed with http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin and it jumped back in to life!!
Only trouble is I ordered another monitor in too much haste!!!
I just wanted to say thank you for all the posts here. Instead of throwing out a perfectly good monitor (would not power back on after prolonged power outage – after running perfectly for 6 years), I was able to reprogram IC205 with this CH341A programmer – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5LPTYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used the cable and was able to reprogram without desoldering the chip. Everything worked on the first pass.
Thank you for all the tips.
You Sir, are a damned evil genius! You just saved my ass!!! Contrary to what you and others seem to think of this monitor, I’ve owned and loved it for over 5 years and it has performed flawlessly… until tonight. Right in the middle of a huuuge retouching job, the power flickers for about a half second. My other 2 monitors pop right up… nothing from the LG. Trying everything- eat dinner in silence with my family. Then I came back to my desk for a last ditch effort, when I come by this page.
I try, try, try, try, try. Nothing. All I can say is try about 30 times more after you’d normally give up: BEEP BEEP BEEP!!!
But then nothing.
I’m thinking I kept my probes on the contacts too long.
I try again, 10 or so times, alternating between the SCLK & CS legs: BEEP BEEP BEEP! I immediately pull my probes off. It’s working!!!
I take the advice and change a few settings, save and exit. power off. power on. power off. power on. power off, unplug. Plug back in, power on. It’s all working like it should! Holy Hell!!!
So Happy! So Tired!
Enjoy your six pack, sir!
All I can say is… I take my hat off to you Sir .. from the situation of considering to send my LG to a scrap heap I now again have a perfectly working monitor after carrying out your approach of jumping 19v rail via my multimeter set to DC voltage to pin 6 on IC205 for approximately 10 times until I heard the speaker chime … Thank you Thank you Thank you.
Reprogramming the chip without removing is safe and not too difficult. You need a CH341A programmer and the AsProgrammer application (Windows-only but I was able to use it in Parallels Desktop on my Mac.) Connect the bridge and cable to the 25xx section of the CH341A programmer unit, making sure pin 1 is in the correct position. Attach the clamp end of the cable to the chip on the monitor main board, again making sure the red wire is on pin 1. (It’s the one marked by a little dimple on the chip and a white dot on the main board.) Now, with AsProgrammer and drivers installed you’ll be able to flash the chip with the ROM mentioned in this thread. Once reassembled my monitor powered on correctly. I had to fiddle with the settings to make it recognise the Mini DisplayPort connection again, but it’s all working now.
Forgot to say, when using AsProgrammer search for ‘MX25L8006E’ and it will find the correct chip.
19 volts to the CS leg did it for me. Beer sent!
cheers
alex
You sir, I take my hat of for you.
This instruction together with some comments have helped me to revive a presumed dead 34UM95-P
For others having this issue with the 34UM95-P (or otherwise), it helped me to remove the board (leave everything connected) but get acces to the power input, bottom of the board the plus pin is by far the most easy acces. This is needed since there is no P700 rail to get the 19V from.
for the rest it’s just tapping the CS and SCLK pin on the EEPROM and after it stays on change some settings power off, power on, power off, remove power cord etc.
It’s now proudly working for a week without hiccups while a new EEPROM is on it’s way to eliminate this issue completely
Does anyone have the firmware for the 34UM68-P?
So for me it worked great with the voltmeter. My monitor is working properly again. Many many thanks
for those looking for the lg31mu97.bin file i have uploaded it here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTqL0bVUmywxGMY6HnFWQ3CnFsl1aaRF/view?usp=sharing
It is so kind of you and to all the others who participated in this blog.
Purchasing the CH341A chip with the file found in the comments and it solved the issue.
Small notes for beginners like myself.
In AsProgrammer you might get error -1 cannot read. This apparently was because I never installed the drivers that came with it. Once the drivers issue was solved everything went smoothly using the clip and chip. In the software when prompted I used the Mx25L8006E.
Really good work everyone.
My 34UC97 got saved today by this method multimeter to the 19V and SCLK two tries 4 min and BAM startup!
I cleaned my desktop to day hit the power strip and ever thing went off that triggered my monitor in the wrong state, exact same IC on my board.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, GUYS!
THIS PAGE SAVED ME €900!
My beloved LG 34UM95-P suddenly did nothing anymore.
Since it’s from 2014, the official LG repair center said they could do nothing because they only would swap the whole mainboard, but the mainboard is out of production.
We tried the method of connecting pins VCC and CS/SCLK with a 1k resistor – didn’t work.
Then I luckily was able to purchase the EEPROM IC (already flashed with the right firmware) from a guy in Poland (he has more of them!).
A guy with soldering skills then replaced the EEPROM, and VOILA! The monitor works again!
You guys are great!
Hi. I am in Poland too and I need that eeprom IC. Could you send me the link or any direction to the guy who sells these upgraded eeproms?
Hey, i’m also from Poland and i also need that eeprom IC, where can i find this guy? Any contact information would be great. Thanks
Hi, I did the manipulation, the screen start to work again, but the right half of my screen is pixelated, any idea about what’s happen ?
There are two major reasons for half screen problems that we’ve seen over the years when repairing those:
First and foremost is cable strip peeled off and pushed sideways or backwards.
Each of the 4 strip cables between the main board and the t-con is made of multiple individual copper wires, which you can see exposed at the back side of the connector.
Those are called FFC/FPC cables and they have a very low number of insertion ratio before they start having problems – 5 to 10, which means sometimes they can even start showing problems the first time you plug them back in. Rarely, but it happens.
And what actually happens is one or more of the tiny copper strips you see at the back of the connector detaches from the plastic base and gets bent backwards or sideways thus making a bad contact or a short.
And then you get a distortion on the screen.
The resolution usually is to straighten it manually and very slowly and carefully insert back. Usually it works the first time but eventually it gets bent again and then it’s time for a new cable.
Just yesterday I had the exactly same problem here and since I was working on a board and had just replaced the two processors (see the second most common reason below) at first I thought the problem was there. But it was a bad cable and, oddly enough, straightening did not fix it, but swapping positions with another cable did – my intention was to just check if the cable was the problem by moving it, but in doing so the defect probably went to unused or duplicated pin (common ground, common power etc.) and the issue went away.
Partially plugged connector can also cause that, but we do not see that happening often, maybe because it’s mostly us who do it here and we don’t usually make that mistake.
The second most common reason for half screen issues we’ve seen is partially damaged processor; we believe this happens when people try the “procedure” described there and send 19V surges to the processor.
The damage can result in all kind of issues, the EEPROM physically burning being one of them, but sometimes it extends to the processor.
The one yesterday had extended to BOTH processors and while the monitor appeared to work normally the moment HDMI source was connected it was hanging for 5-6 seconds, then showing image/sound for a second and again hanging for 5-6 seconds , apparently trying to process.
At the end we had to replace both processors, along with the EEPROM and a few smaller components around it.
Most of the time when we see certain shortage we know that’s what it is and most of the time it’s either the EEPROM only (and maybe some small stuff in the circuits around) or the EEPROM and small stuff and the main processor.
I think this was the first time where we had to replace both.
Our theory on why that happens may be incorrect…but it’s simple, logical and explains the phenomenon…therefore I’d call it scientific 🙂
Good luck with your repairs!
My lg31mu97-b monitor had a similar issue to everyone else – it would not power up. I ended up fixing it by programming the chip mx25l8006e as suggested by Noah Vozen.
To program the chip, I bought the “KeeYees SOP8 SOIC8 Test Clip and CH341A USB Programmer Flash for Most of 24 25 Series EEPROM BIOS Chip with PDF Tutorial” (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07SHSL9X9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) from Amazon, which included a SOIC clip so you don’t have to take the chip off the board.
Note that the data pins on this programmer board were at 5v, which is too high for the EEPROM and could damage it. I didn’t realize it at the time I bought it. The fix for this is to lift a pin and solder some connections; this exact process is shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ln3VIZKKaE&t=1s. I did that and the pins showed 3.3v as expected. If you don’t want to do this, there are other (much more expensive) boards that have a 3.3v selector. That’s probably worthwhile though if you want to avoid soldering completely.
I had initially bought some replacement mx25l8006e chips from Coppel TV Repair on ebay as listed https://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-31MU97-B-MAIN-BOARD-62882801-31MU97-LM41C-EAX66105904-EEPROM-IC205-ONLY/160560702381 which was listed as “LG 31MU97-B MAIN BOARD 62882801 / 31MU97/LM41C / EAX66105904 EEPROM IC205 ONLY”, but after reading the data from those, it was identical (had the same md5 checksum) as the one found at http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin, so I elected to reprogram instead of soldering the new chip to the board.
I used the software “ASprogrammer” AsProgrammer_2.0.3a.zip and it had the exact mx25l8006e chip selectable from the list.
Note about doing the programming:
It is not obvious how to tell if the clip/pins from the CH341A are connected to the right thing on the chip itself. I’d never done anything like this before so I’m sure most people are the same. You should review the video to see how to connect it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OttN8wQ1HhE&t=0s
* When reading the chip, if you see all FFs or 00s, there is probably an issue with the connections to the chip. I found that the SOIC clip is finicky and needs to rest exactly on the pins. Keep reseating it and pressing the “read” button in ASProgrammer until it shows data (something that isn’t all FF or 00s)
* Once you have good data, read it several times and save each one, and do a checksum of each file. If they all match you’re probably reading it well.
* I had to press the “unprotect” button in ASprogrammer to make it writable (if that wasn’t done, I could “write” but when I tried to “read” it again it would show the original data)..
* Once I wrote the data from http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin to the chip, I read it again from the chip to confirm it was written and again checked against the known checksum of the http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin file from my computer. All good there.
I checked to make sure the monitor came back on before putting the plastic back panel on (I would suggest closing up the metal case since it is dangerous), which it did, and then put the panel back as well.
Note that you do see in the monitor settings menu that the device is “LM310UH1” which is obviously incorrect. But it seems to work and the monitor displays 4k perfectly fine, and is detected by windows as the correct device. However, I did email LG support to ask them if they could provide the correct .bin file for the chip and will post a link here if they provide it.
“…but after reading the data from those, it was identical (had the same md5 checksum) as the one found at http://aleksikoski.com/temp/lg31mu97.bin, so I elected to reprogram instead of soldering the new chip to the board.”
That is an interesting observation which, thanks to the simple fact that every start and stop of the monitor modifies the EEPROM – has only one explanation: the file at aleksikoski *is* the binary read of the EEPROM sold by Coppell TV Repair LLC 🙂
Yes, I agree.
Considering that the original firmware in the download provided by Alex was supposed to be obtained from the “LG service firmware update software” (after some googling I assume he means the LG GSFS at https://gsfsplus.lge.com/), and that Coppell as a repair shop is likely to have access to that same portal, they probably both obtained it there.
LG replied to my email and said that the binary for that chip was not available, but they kindly offered to repair it for me for $300. I’ll try emailing a local LG repair shop to confirm if the binary available in the GSFS is the same as the one available here.
I really do not want to get into a discussion of moral here, but I’ll say our file does not come from LG published or approved source.
It comes from a monitor that we paid $400 for at a time when we needed it and it was nowhere to be found.
Of course once it becomes available for $10 it is so easily justifiable to just put it out for free for the others.
It can be easily justified as doing others a favor.
This is pretty much the situation behind what the right to repair movement is about, only at a way smaller scale and repair centers in the role of the OEMs with the larger investment ($400 vs $10 down to free).
No judging as I said…it’s part of life.
.
Thanks a lot. Fixed mine following your and this (https://fluidicice.com/blog/?p=1535#comment-33031) instructions.
The difference between you two is that the latter suggested using the JP pads… I also alternated between #1 CS and #6 SCLK before the monitor finally came back to life.
After the first “revival”, I tried a hard off without soft off first, and then I had to fiddle with the ammeter again… Hope I remember to soft off before hard off, and no more power disruptions.
It took me ~2-hour, one for taking off the back cover and the other for playing with the ammeter.
Thanks again bro. One less electronic garbage.
Hey i own a LG 34UM94C-P.AEU i have save my monitor with the 34UM95 firmware posted here using CH341 programmer, since i couldn’t make it work using the ic short method, Anyway monitor is working but i cannot get the HDMI port to work properly currently using Displayport and windows recoignace my monitor as 34UM95, i have a copy of the original 34UM94C-P that i read from mi 205IC before rewrite it with the firm from internet… also i cannot enter to service menu to try to write EDID thing… Anyway what im tryign to say is, is there a way to solve my HDMI problem? maybe via the original firmware or by entering the service menu or another way to write edid?
Thanks guys
lg31mu97 died today, and thanks to you guys it’s alive again. For me it worked with the #CS pin…and 1 hour to dig the multimeter 🙂
thank you!!!